Monthly Archives: March 2015

Day 8: Return to Reykajvik and the Northern Lights Tour (Christina)

Good Bye Snæfellsnes Peninsula

The day of day eight is somewhat un-exciting. Our last morning at the Framnes hotel began with me shivering and refusing to get out from under the down comforter. Michael stuck his hand in the snow that had collected on the window sill and happily announced that he could easily submerge his entire finger. After breakfast and writing the blog post for day seven, we packed up our bags and left them in the lobby while we dug the car out of the (more than) foot of snow that had fallen over night.

Unlike Nashville (which is my only point of reference) snow fall in Iceland doesn’t mean a thick blanket of ice covering everything. Sure, we pushed a foot of powder off the roof of our car, but we didn’t also have to melt down and scrape off inches of ice beneath it. Which meant that all in all, it didn’t take us long to get back on the road.

The drive from Grundarfjörður to Reykjavik, which was the first stop in our journey and will be our last also, takes about two and a half hours. Snow fell fairly consistently throughout, but the wind didn’t try to push us around this time. We arrived in Reykjavik, roughly as planned, and checked into the hotel.

Quick Trip Out On The Town

Because we were on the second-to-last full day in Iceland, we’d saved the time in between driving and our Northern Lights Mystery Tour to do some souvenir shopping. We went down town and stopped at one of Iceland’s famous hotdog stands, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur.

All around us people were snapping selfies with their faces pressed close to the Icelandic hotdogs in their hands. Michael and I scarfed ours down without even thinking of pulling out our phones. It was then we’d realized he hadn’t taken any pictures yet today. We debated getting back in line to purchase a second round so that we could properly document this culinary experience before scarfing them down again, but decided to hold off.

Northern Lights Mystery Tour

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The Northern Lights Mystery Tour is the only actual tour that we’d scheduled before we stepped foot on a plane. One of the main reasons we booked our trip when we did is because the northern lights have a few habits. First, they are typically brighter near an equinox. Second, there’s something to do with eleven years. Every eleven years they are brighter, or every eleven years they show up more frequently or something like that. This was the eleventh year. And Third, the northern lights are only visible at night.

Iceland is one of those funny places that doesn’t really have a night time during the summer, and doesn’t really have a day time during the winter. A lot of people who come to Iceland wait for the summer when the puffins and the seals and the flowers and the warmth are out to play. But we came at the tail end of winter (risking the ice caves melting and the weather being difficult) because the equinox was our target.

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Already this week, we’d felt lucky to spot as bright of northern lights as we’d seen. Every night that we’d hunted them out there has been a mixture of regular bands (whitish to the eye but brilliant on camera) and a few brilliant bands (where even the naked eye can pick up some of the colors). We expected last night to be much the same. We were wrong.

As the bus drove us out to a not so deserted lighthouse, we began to see faint glows of the lights in the sky. They were dancing in almost 180 degrees by the time we had parked. We pulled the camera and started shooting. Every time I moved the lens, there were bright streaks of the northern lights waiting to be captured.

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Michael was kind enough to figure out all the tricks needed to get good lights pictures in the previous nights. So, he handed the camera off to me for the night they were the brightest. Michael played look out, re-directing my focus, whenever a new, brilliant band of lights sprung into existence. I snapped away, marveling at each new angle I could capture.

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Day 7 – Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Grundarfjörður and the Northern Lights pt. 2 (Mike)

Day 7 ended up being a relatively low-key day.  We hadn’t planned much to do in the Peninsula, and all the driving and sight-seeing was starting to catch up with us.  Still, there was one spot we had to see.

Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss

One thing we’ve noticed is most names for places in Iceland follow a pattern.  Usually, they’re amalgamation of smaller words.  In this instance Kirkju- means church, -fell means mountain, and -foss means falls.  So Church Mountain, and Church Mountain Falls (see also on Day 5, Kirkjugólf = Church floor). Knowing a couple word fragments, you can quickly start to understand if what you’re going to is a waterfall (foss), a mountain (fell) or a glacier (jokul).

Anyways, I had seen many pictures of the gorgeous waterfall and steeple shaped mountain and knew we had to get a couple pictures there.

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Kirkjufell is named because it vaguely resembles a church steeple. You can see some of the waterfall in the left corner.

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The falls with Kirkjufell to our back.

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A snow storm started back up, so we decided to headback to town and grab some food.

Local Eats

There’s just a couple restaurants to choose from in town.  We ended up doing lunch at local cafe called Laki.  They had wonderful panini’s and drinks.  I got a hot chocolate (all photographing in the snow required a warm comforting drink) and Christina had a “Ice Cream Coffee.” Still not sure what exactly it was, but it was delicious.

After lunch, we headed back to our hotel caught a nap as we knew we would be out late hunting for the Northern Lights.

For dinner we stopped at another cozy local restaurant called RúBen (shockingly, no actual Rueben’s on the menu).  The food and service were wonderful.  If you find yourself in Grundarfjördur, make it a point to stop here.

Aurora hunting

After dinner, it was time for more Aurora hunting.  We geared up in our warmest snow clothing and headed back out to Kirkjufell.  Within 5-10 minutes of arriving, the sky started putting on a show for us.  We hadn’t even gotten a chance to make our way to the locations we had scouted out earlier.

The colors were a mix of green, purples and pinks and it was wonderful.  I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

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Christina also noticed a strange glowing cloud on the horizon. She’s calling it a volcano, but we’re still not sure what it was. It appeared a few times throughout the night and didn’t quite fit with anything else happening in the sky.

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You can see the glow over the mountains in the bottom right corner.

 

Today, we are heading back to Reykjavik where we will do some shopping during the day and have a guided Northern Lights tour in the evening.

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DAY 6 – The Settlement Museum and Grundarfjörður (Christina)

On the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Borgarnes looks out over a bay and more mountains

While we were prepping for this trip we purchased down filled weather-proof(ish) coats and thick snow pants, both of which would be needed for the glacier hiking and ice cave exploring we intended to do. (We later learned that the ice caves have all started melting and can no longer be explored this season.) My coat came with a tag that promised to keep me warm in -10 degree weather (with some physical activity), and Michael’s coat adds 15 degrees to the temperature as soon as you put it on.

I was concerned because we don’t really have good in-between coats. You know, ones that were rain and weather proof without adding all the extra warmth. My concern was furthered when I realized most of my winter gear depended on heavy sweaters that, in Nashville, I rarely needed to wear with a heavier coat. The Saturday before our departure, I dragged Michael to Target in search of thinner, long-sleeved shirts to wear beneath our coats without stifling us with all the added heat. Given that the Iceland temperatures looked between 25 (lows) and 40 (highs) during our trip, I was still unconvinced that we were adequately prepared to the point where I might have suggested (half-jokingly) that we leave our heavy coats at home in case they were just adding unnecessary weight to our luggage. Michael reminded me about the glaciers and ice caves, and so they came with us.

Looking back, it’s laughable to think that I ever wondered about the coats, which have been needed every day. Today especially as it seemed that the whole Snæfellsnes peninsula was covered in snow.

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The view from our Hamar hotel room, including hot tub.

 

The Settlement Museum

We checked out of our hotel in Hamar and drove into Borgarnes (the town just minutes from the hotel) to check out the Settlement Museum. Let me tell you, it did not disappoint.

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The museum has an audio tour that takes you through two exhibits, one that re-counts the original settlement of Iceland (apparently the Vikings could have gotten to Iceland from Norway in roughly 72 hours) and the second that goes through a few of the Icelandic Sagas (which roughly recount the history of the land).

A precurser to modern day hockey

A precurser to modern day hockey

In our excursions we learned how they used the birds and the whales as compasses, since the navigation techniques we’re familiar with today were not yet invented, and we learned about the original five Viking founders.

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Perhaps the more interesting (and possibly nightmare inducing) of the exhibits followed the story of Egill Skallagrimsson who (Michael and I assume) might have been the inspiration for parts of the Game of Thrones series. (Okay, we don’t really know that. But his story would fit right in at Westeros.)

Possibly the Original Red Wedding

Possibly the Original Red Wedding

His Uncle, a shape shifter who was knowledgable in the magic arts

His Uncle, a shape shifter who was knowledgable in the magic arts. (I was scared this maniquin would go all Doctor Who and follow us around the exhibit).

Once we finished the exhibitions, we browsed the gift shop and purchased our first souvenirs of the trip. A book of all the Iceland Sagas, a book of photos of Iceland, and a CD of humorously narrated Icelandic tales.

Grundarfjörður

With the museum done, we started on the (should have been) hour long drive to the Framnes Hotel. The snow was pouring down steadily throughout the morning, and we’d hoped the Iceland weather would remain consistently inconsistent. Unfortunately, it did not.

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Once again our drive through rural areas was plagued with heavy snow and frozen rain. We passed at least four snow plowing vehicles clearing up the road, but their efforts were soon hidden as the snow piled up again. At one point, we just had to stop driving, because the road was completely hidden by the wind.

By the time we reached Grundarfjörður, where the Framnes Hotel is. We were exhausted and ready to relax. Dinner time rolled around, and we tried to foray into the town in search of food. The snow was several inches deep, and everything appeared to be closed.

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So, we headed back to the hotel to eat there. As we’ve found with almost all the places we’ve stayed, the meal was delicious.

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DAY 5 – FROM NUPAR TO HAMAR (Christina)

The only problem with doing a self-drive experience in Iceland is that you have to actually drive. The island itself isn’t hard to get around (providing the roads aren’t snowed out). Being able to pack up and move at your leisure, having access to any of the things you brought as you need them is wonderful (we’ve taken to keeping our snowpants on hand at all times in case the weather gives us a cold shoulder). And having the freedom to choose where and when to go places makes travel awesome.

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We had to stop by the waterfall we spotted the day before and get a full shot of it.

The main “problem” is that when you wake up in Skaftafell after watching the northern lights through the new-born hours of the day, and you know you have a four hour drive a head of you, part of you wishes that someone had already created that teleportation machine so that you didn’t have to worry about the actual drive.

Of course that part of you doesn’t realize that the nice thing about a four hour drive is that you get four hours of beautiful scenery and the ability to stop and take pictures anywhere you want. Our approach was to stop every 30 minutes, get out, stretch, and take a picture because, we figured, that’s about as far as you can go before it looks like you’re somewhere completely different.

After we’d been on the road for about an hour, driving for maybe thirty minutes, and stopping three times off schedule to take pictures at whim, we realized the detriment to our approach was that we really wanted to take pictures every ten minutes or so.

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Be sure to pay special attention to the times in the slideshow above.  We tried to take one at least every 30 minutes, and in some cases much quicker. Hopefully this gives you a sense of the drastic shifts in landscape can be over the span of just a few minutes sometimes. The gallery should be in chronological starting with our first stop at 11:30am

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Day 4 – Skaftafell, Jökulsárlón, and the Aurora (Mike)

The day we had planned on having turned out to be quite a bit different than they day we ended up having.  Up until today we’ve had absolutely gorgeous weather.  Some of the natives have remarked at how lucky we’ve been the last couple days.  Plenty of sun with just enough wind and cloud cover.

A Change of Plans

The original agenda today was to head over to Skaftafell National Park and explore the glacier with a guided glacier hike.  The weather, however, had different plans.  We woke up to quite a bit of rain and wind.  When we arrived at Skaftafell, the guide in the outpost informed us that all of the morning hikes had been cancelled. The wind at the top of the glacier was just too severe.  He advised we come back at 2pm as they hoped the weather would clear by then.

Jökulsárlón

We decided to take the free time and head up to Jökulsárlón.  Jökulsárlón literally means Glacier Lagoon.  If you take a look at the map below, you can see why…

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Google Earth View of the Glacier Lagoon

The glacier melts and pieces break off, and try to make it out to the sea, but the entrance to ocean is fairly narrow causing an incredible lagoon filled with blocks of the glacier just floating there.  We explored as much as the wind and rain would allow.  We even got to see a seal swim around!

[Due to the weather conditions, most of the photos from the lagoon are just what we could get with our cell phones]
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The size of the glacier pieces are quite impressive up close! These are some of the “small” ones!

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Day 3 – A LAND OF FIRE AND ICE (Christina)

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Christina got this great shot of a lava field being eroded away by a glacial river.

Before we came to Iceland, before we even bought plane tickets, we began to research the sorts of things in which we’d be interested in seeing. One of our main joined areas of interested is scenery that makes for beautiful photographs (Michael) or for great attempts to make beautiful photographs (me).

When you’re in Vik, there are a few breathtaking sights that are hard to ignore. There are basalt columns, glacier rivers, the black lava beaches, an awesome natural stone archway, and even the remains of a crashed plane. And let us not forget that the whole area is surrounded by glacier covered mountains and covered in fields of laval rocks and sand.

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Panoramic shot of the incredible mountains, glaciers and the vast black sand desert on the way to our first destination. We had to go a bit off the beaten path for this one… (Make sure to click and view it at it’s full size)

Having a light schedule for the day, the only fixed point was checking into our hotel in Nupar (near Skaftafell National Park) in the afternoon, we decided to dedicate most of our free time to photography. We grabbed breakfast and headed to the beaches.

Abandoned U.S. Navy Plane

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The morning light, black desert, and pale sky made the wreckage look like something directly out of a Sci-Fi movie.

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Day 2 – The Golden Circle and Vik (Christina)

Waking up today was hard. Not jetlag hard, but I was up at 3AM two days ago and then awake all night on Saturday (because, let’s face it, sleep did not happen on the plane) hard. Iceland is five hours ahead of Nashville and our itinerary for day 2 was one of the busier ones which means that we were up and moving at 7 AM (okay, 7:20) local time and 2 AM our time.

We packed up the car, grabbed a quick bite to eat at our hotel restaurant’s delectable breakfast buffet and headed out. Today’s plan was checkout: 8:30 AM, drive to Geysir (the original namesake of all geysers): 10 AM, continue on to Gullfoss (an amazing waterfall): 10:30 AM, Drive to Laugarvatn Fontana (geothermal spas anyone?): 12:00 PM, and finally, arrive at our hotel in Vik: 4:00 PM.

The Drive to the Golden Circle

Today went, almost, according to plan. Let me start this portion by saying, I’ve never been in a sand storm. I want to say the closest I’ve ever gotten is either a vicarious experience through a movie or maybe when sand pelted me in the face during a mild breeze across the great sand dunes in Colorado.When we started driving today, we knew the following things: today would be colder, today would be snowier, and today would be driving through less inhabited portions of Iceland as we made our way across the top of what’s known as the Golden Circle.

What felt, at the time like a wasteland of just snow and ice everywhere.  At several points it was so windy we couldn't see the car in front of us as the snow blew across the road.

What felt, at the time like a wasteland of just snow and ice everywhere. At several points it was so windy we couldn’t see the car in front of us as the snow blew across the road.

What we did not know was that our GPS has a delightfully Icelandic road trip guide with fun tidbits about the history and culture of the land we were about to drive through. We also did not know that said guide would try to hijack GPS navigation girl’s directions in a tug of war for our attention (no worries we didn’t get lost). But perhaps, most importantly, we did not know that just outside Reykjavik the land evens out into a beautiful near wasteland of uncultivated space. The long road stretching in front of us and the breeze swirling snow made us feel like isolated beings on some sort of frontier-land (with a nicely paved road to follow) until the pleasant breeze grew strong enough to push the car around (in Michael’s capable hands, we were fine). But the snow assailed us until I found myself thinking, this is what it must be like to be in a sandstorm.

Thankfully, the windy-snowy blind didn’t last long, but certainly long enough to get my adrenaline kicked in and push us about an hour behind schedule. The sun came out, making the rest of the drive to Geysir bright and beautiful.

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Þingvellir National Park

Þingvellir National Park (pronounced Thing-vel-ear).

Þingvellir National Park (pronounced Thing-vel-ear).

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Day 1 – Arrival and Reykjavik (Mike)

A glimpse at the city of Reykjavik and some of the snow covered mountains surrounding it. The steeple on the right belongs to Hallgrimskirkja.

 

After much anticipation and waiting we are finally here! We are in gorgeous Iceland.

 The Flight and a brush with the Aurora

 

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Ready for our flight!

We left the Boston airport around 10pm Eastern time and arrived in Reykjavik at about 6am local time.  The flight itself was between 4 and a half and five hours. Christina and I tried to spend as much time sleeping as possible, with mixed results.  The most exciting part of the ride was when were flying near the coast of Greenland… I looked out the window and caught my first glimpse of the Northern Lights.   Unapologetic,  I woke Christina up to see as well.  The angle of the plane, as well as the lights made it difficult to really appreciate it, but we at least got our first taste.

Icelandair flights are full of interesting touches to educate and excite their customers about Iceland - such as this pillow printed with an Icelandic lullaby

Icelandair flights are full of interesting touches to educate and excite their customers about Iceland – such as this pillow printed with an Icelandic lullaby

We finally landed, made our way through customs and got our car rental.  One thing you always read about when researching a trip to Iceland is that the weather is chaotic at best.  A common phrase is “If you don’t like the weather in Iceland, just wait five minutes.” We didn’t understand they meant this quite literally. In the 30 minute drive from the Keflavik Airport to our hotel in Reykjavik, we went from rain, to bright sunshine, to snow, to fog, back to sunshine. At one point, I’m pretty sure it was all of those at once. This extended throughout the day… multiple snows, punctuated by a sunny day so bright our sunglasses weren’t enough.  We honestly lost count of the weather changes in the single day.

Hallgrímskirkja – Our first stop

Hallgrímskirkja - Literally the Church (kirkja) of Hallgrímur (an Icelandic poet/Reverend from the 1600s).

Hallgrímskirkja – Literally the Church (kirkja) of Hallgrímur (an Icelandic poet/Reverend from the 1600s).

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