Borgarnes looks out over a bay and more mountains

While we were prepping for this trip we purchased down filled weather-proof(ish) coats and thick snow pants, both of which would be needed for the glacier hiking and ice cave exploring we intended to do. (We later learned that the ice caves have all started melting and can no longer be explored this season.) My coat came with a tag that promised to keep me warm in -10 degree weather (with some physical activity), and Michael’s coat adds 15 degrees to the temperature as soon as you put it on.

I was concerned because we don’t really have good in-between coats. You know, ones that were rain and weather proof without adding all the extra warmth. My concern was furthered when I realized most of my winter gear depended on heavy sweaters that, in Nashville, I rarely needed to wear with a heavier coat. The Saturday before our departure, I dragged Michael to Target in search of thinner, long-sleeved shirts to wear beneath our coats without stifling us with all the added heat. Given that the Iceland temperatures looked between 25 (lows) and 40 (highs) during our trip, I was still unconvinced that we were adequately prepared to the point where I might have suggested (half-jokingly) that we leave our heavy coats at home in case they were just adding unnecessary weight to our luggage. Michael reminded me about the glaciers and ice caves, and so they came with us.

Looking back, it’s laughable to think that I ever wondered about the coats, which have been needed every day. Today especially as it seemed that the whole Snæfellsnes peninsula was covered in snow.

The view from our Hamar hotel room, including hot tub.

The Settlement Museum

We checked out of our hotel in Hamar and drove into Borgarnes (the town just minutes from the hotel) to check out the Settlement Museum. Let me tell you, it did not disappoint.

The museum has an audio tour that takes you through two exhibits, one that re-counts the original settlement of Iceland (apparently the Vikings could have gotten to Iceland from Norway in roughly 72 hours) and the second that goes through a few of the Icelandic Sagas (which roughly recount the history of the land).

A precurser to modern day hockey

In our excursions we learned how they used the birds and the whales as compasses, since the navigation techniques we’re familiar with today were not yet invented, and we learned about the original five Viking founders.

Perhaps the more interesting (and possibly nightmare inducing) of the exhibits followed the story of Egill Skallagrimsson who (Michael and I assume) might have been the inspiration for parts of the Game of Thrones series. (Okay, we don’t really know that. But his story would fit right in at Westeros.)

Possibly the Original Red Wedding

His Uncle, a shape shifter who was knowledgable in the magic arts. (I was scared this maniquin would go all Doctor Who and follow us around the exhibit).

Once we finished the exhibitions, we browsed the gift shop and purchased our first souvenirs of the trip. A book of all the Iceland Sagas, a book of photos of Iceland, and a CD of humorously narrated Icelandic tales.

Grundarfjörður

With the museum done, we started on the (should have been) hour long drive to the Framnes Hotel. The snow was pouring down steadily throughout the morning, and we’d hoped the Iceland weather would remain consistently inconsistent. Unfortunately, it did not.

Once again our drive through rural areas was plagued with heavy snow and frozen rain. We passed at least four snow plowing vehicles clearing up the road, but their efforts were soon hidden as the snow piled up again. At one point, we just had to stop driving, because the road was completely hidden by the wind.

By the time we reached Grundarfjörður, where the Framnes Hotel is. We were exhausted and ready to relax. Dinner time rolled around, and we tried to foray into the town in search of food. The snow was several inches deep, and everything appeared to be closed.

So, we headed back to the hotel to eat there. As we’ve found with almost all the places we’ve stayed, the meal was delicious.