Tag Archives: Framnes Hotel

Day 8: Return to Reykajvik and the Northern Lights Tour (Christina)

Good Bye Snæfellsnes Peninsula

The day of day eight is somewhat un-exciting. Our last morning at the Framnes hotel began with me shivering and refusing to get out from under the down comforter. Michael stuck his hand in the snow that had collected on the window sill and happily announced that he could easily submerge his entire finger. After breakfast and writing the blog post for day seven, we packed up our bags and left them in the lobby while we dug the car out of the (more than) foot of snow that had fallen over night.

Unlike Nashville (which is my only point of reference) snow fall in Iceland doesn’t mean a thick blanket of ice covering everything. Sure, we pushed a foot of powder off the roof of our car, but we didn’t also have to melt down and scrape off inches of ice beneath it. Which meant that all in all, it didn’t take us long to get back on the road.

The drive from Grundarfjörður to Reykjavik, which was the first stop in our journey and will be our last also, takes about two and a half hours. Snow fell fairly consistently throughout, but the wind didn’t try to push us around this time. We arrived in Reykjavik, roughly as planned, and checked into the hotel.

Quick Trip Out On The Town

Because we were on the second-to-last full day in Iceland, we’d saved the time in between driving and our Northern Lights Mystery Tour to do some souvenir shopping. We went down town and stopped at one of Iceland’s famous hotdog stands, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur.

All around us people were snapping selfies with their faces pressed close to the Icelandic hotdogs in their hands. Michael and I scarfed ours down without even thinking of pulling out our phones. It was then we’d realized he hadn’t taken any pictures yet today. We debated getting back in line to purchase a second round so that we could properly document this culinary experience before scarfing them down again, but decided to hold off.

Northern Lights Mystery Tour

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The Northern Lights Mystery Tour is the only actual tour that we’d scheduled before we stepped foot on a plane. One of the main reasons we booked our trip when we did is because the northern lights have a few habits. First, they are typically brighter near an equinox. Second, there’s something to do with eleven years. Every eleven years they are brighter, or every eleven years they show up more frequently or something like that. This was the eleventh year. And Third, the northern lights are only visible at night.

Iceland is one of those funny places that doesn’t really have a night time during the summer, and doesn’t really have a day time during the winter. A lot of people who come to Iceland wait for the summer when the puffins and the seals and the flowers and the warmth are out to play. But we came at the tail end of winter (risking the ice caves melting and the weather being difficult) because the equinox was our target.

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Already this week, we’d felt lucky to spot as bright of northern lights as we’d seen. Every night that we’d hunted them out there has been a mixture of regular bands (whitish to the eye but brilliant on camera) and a few brilliant bands (where even the naked eye can pick up some of the colors). We expected last night to be much the same. We were wrong.

As the bus drove us out to a not so deserted lighthouse, we began to see faint glows of the lights in the sky. They were dancing in almost 180 degrees by the time we had parked. We pulled the camera and started shooting. Every time I moved the lens, there were bright streaks of the northern lights waiting to be captured.

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Michael was kind enough to figure out all the tricks needed to get good lights pictures in the previous nights. So, he handed the camera off to me for the night they were the brightest. Michael played look out, re-directing my focus, whenever a new, brilliant band of lights sprung into existence. I snapped away, marveling at each new angle I could capture.

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DAY 6 – The Settlement Museum and Grundarfjörður (Christina)

On the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Borgarnes looks out over a bay and more mountains

While we were prepping for this trip we purchased down filled weather-proof(ish) coats and thick snow pants, both of which would be needed for the glacier hiking and ice cave exploring we intended to do. (We later learned that the ice caves have all started melting and can no longer be explored this season.) My coat came with a tag that promised to keep me warm in -10 degree weather (with some physical activity), and Michael’s coat adds 15 degrees to the temperature as soon as you put it on.

I was concerned because we don’t really have good in-between coats. You know, ones that were rain and weather proof without adding all the extra warmth. My concern was furthered when I realized most of my winter gear depended on heavy sweaters that, in Nashville, I rarely needed to wear with a heavier coat. The Saturday before our departure, I dragged Michael to Target in search of thinner, long-sleeved shirts to wear beneath our coats without stifling us with all the added heat. Given that the Iceland temperatures looked between 25 (lows) and 40 (highs) during our trip, I was still unconvinced that we were adequately prepared to the point where I might have suggested (half-jokingly) that we leave our heavy coats at home in case they were just adding unnecessary weight to our luggage. Michael reminded me about the glaciers and ice caves, and so they came with us.

Looking back, it’s laughable to think that I ever wondered about the coats, which have been needed every day. Today especially as it seemed that the whole Snæfellsnes peninsula was covered in snow.

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The view from our Hamar hotel room, including hot tub.

 

The Settlement Museum

We checked out of our hotel in Hamar and drove into Borgarnes (the town just minutes from the hotel) to check out the Settlement Museum. Let me tell you, it did not disappoint.

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The museum has an audio tour that takes you through two exhibits, one that re-counts the original settlement of Iceland (apparently the Vikings could have gotten to Iceland from Norway in roughly 72 hours) and the second that goes through a few of the Icelandic Sagas (which roughly recount the history of the land).

A precurser to modern day hockey

A precurser to modern day hockey

In our excursions we learned how they used the birds and the whales as compasses, since the navigation techniques we’re familiar with today were not yet invented, and we learned about the original five Viking founders.

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Perhaps the more interesting (and possibly nightmare inducing) of the exhibits followed the story of Egill Skallagrimsson who (Michael and I assume) might have been the inspiration for parts of the Game of Thrones series. (Okay, we don’t really know that. But his story would fit right in at Westeros.)

Possibly the Original Red Wedding

Possibly the Original Red Wedding

His Uncle, a shape shifter who was knowledgable in the magic arts

His Uncle, a shape shifter who was knowledgable in the magic arts. (I was scared this maniquin would go all Doctor Who and follow us around the exhibit).

Once we finished the exhibitions, we browsed the gift shop and purchased our first souvenirs of the trip. A book of all the Iceland Sagas, a book of photos of Iceland, and a CD of humorously narrated Icelandic tales.

Grundarfjörður

With the museum done, we started on the (should have been) hour long drive to the Framnes Hotel. The snow was pouring down steadily throughout the morning, and we’d hoped the Iceland weather would remain consistently inconsistent. Unfortunately, it did not.

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Once again our drive through rural areas was plagued with heavy snow and frozen rain. We passed at least four snow plowing vehicles clearing up the road, but their efforts were soon hidden as the snow piled up again. At one point, we just had to stop driving, because the road was completely hidden by the wind.

By the time we reached Grundarfjörður, where the Framnes Hotel is. We were exhausted and ready to relax. Dinner time rolled around, and we tried to foray into the town in search of food. The snow was several inches deep, and everything appeared to be closed.

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So, we headed back to the hotel to eat there. As we’ve found with almost all the places we’ve stayed, the meal was delicious.

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